Chablis, 'Les Forest', Vincent Dauvissat 2005
I worried about this wine. In the past I've found V. Dauvissat's wines to be pretty easy to understand right at release. They are usually very representative of their sites and vintages and have good balance. However, this wine was a little different in its youth. It was a complete floozie: unfocused, fruity, lacking in all mineral content and strangely vanillin.
Now the wine is gorgeous. Bright, ripe fruit crowns a mountain of acid. The minerality is strong with a plethora of aromas: wet stone, chalk and spicy flint. Everything is starting to come together here. I'm going to refrain from describing the wine any further as a feel I can't do it justice at this point. It needs more time. I will say that it was correctly identified as top flight Chablis in a blind tasting with a buddy of mine. The only thing he got wrong was calling it GC. I'll forgive him for the error.
Cantina Terlan 'Kreuth' Alto Adige 2003
The Terlan was tasted blind along side and following the 'Les Forest'.
For as mighty of an Italian Chardonnay as Kreuth is, it just paled in comparison to the Dauvissat. Ok so its not a fair fight, and we still drank every last drop....
Sweet peas, alcoholic sweetness and herbs are propped up by river stones and lemony acidity. The nose is complex but jarring. The wine is a bit awkward at this stage with juxtaposition of overly ripe vintage character playing against cooler site specific aromas of sour apple and lemons. In a way it reminds me of New Zealand Pinot Noir in that it seems to be at odds with itself. Overly ripe and under-ripe at the same time.
I loved this wine when it was younger. It was cool and refreshing with nearly perfect balance. I'm willing to blame the poor showing on three factors. 1) It was up against a vastly superior wine 2) The wine is in a bad place right now 3) One of the tasters (me) has been away from the wine profession too long and no longer has the chops to understand it.
Bosquet des Papes, CDP 1998
What CDP is supposed to be. What 1998 was hyped to be and really isn't. Possibly the last wine that "Wine Speculator" gave a 95+ point rating and actually deserved it.
No aroma of alcohol. No overconcetration Not sweet. Not oaked. No sumatarite. No bubble gum. No brett. No bastardazation of anykind.
Gotham like aromas of spicy Maduro cigar wrapper, black licorice, savory herbs and jet black fruits. Meaty and savage but also quite elegant in its power. The aromas are heady with some much complexity it's hard to keep the mind from spinning.
The wine evolved in a very linear progression. The first whiffs were powerful but largely dominated by fruit and garrigue. As the wine breathed in oxygen it exhaled all the dark spicy nuances one could ever want out of CDP. Unique and exciting.
Monday, November 23, 2009
Friday, October 30, 2009
10/23/09
Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray 2000
I've drank nearly a case of this wine over the past 5 years. It's been very interesting to follow its progression
Day bright, deep straw yellow with some hint of green and a moderate to thick watery miniscus. It has a particularly beautiful texture while swirling.
Bright pear, green apple, fig and candied ginger play off of marzipan and subtle lemon leaf. There is a strong chalky minerality but perhaps less than in its youth. The marzipan increases in intensity as the wine breathes and somewhat subverts the chalkiness. There is little of the cream cheese/sour yogurt aroma left at this stage of evolution. Some what disappointing as this is one of the trademarks that I love in great examples of Corton Charlemange.
The palate has gained considerable breadth over the last year. The biggest change in flavor s is the dramatic increase in oxidative flavors. It's not soo salty like 'pre-mox'; it's more of a ripeness thing I suspect. The other flavors are similar to the nose with some more tropical papaya notes. The wine has very good acidity but seems all around tamer and less focused than it used to.
I'm not sure where this is going. I'll drink most of the rest of what I have left, as I preferred earlier examples. Who knows, maybe its just a stage and the wine will get better.
Clos St. Jaques, Fourrier 2004
I don't feel guilty drinking young Fourrier. I adore the wild, untamed fruit his wines possess in their youth. This bottle was decanted for 2.5 hours, put back in the bottle and transported to a wonderful dinner at the Birchrunville Cafe.
BAM! Sauvage blackberry, raspberry and curranty fruit with pure stony minerals and underbrush. Enough funk to draw comments from the peanut gallery, but really clean and bright to Pinot lovers. The fruit is just wild and plays expertly off the resinous earth tones. Quite open at this stage of its life.
The palate is silky smooth with fully integrated tannin and almost no perceivable acid. It's shocking how supple the texture is, like drinking silk. The texture is so soft in-fact, I looked back at the bottle to make sure I had brought the right wine!
With more air the wine grows increasingly complex. The acids peak out and some tannin becomes noticeable. The flavors are all there and perfectly complement the lithe texture. After about an hour in the glass the first hint of bitter tannin peaks out. In another half hour the wine is tight, acidic and painful. Thankfully by this point the bottle is empty and its time for dessert.
I've drank nearly a case of this wine over the past 5 years. It's been very interesting to follow its progression
Day bright, deep straw yellow with some hint of green and a moderate to thick watery miniscus. It has a particularly beautiful texture while swirling.
Bright pear, green apple, fig and candied ginger play off of marzipan and subtle lemon leaf. There is a strong chalky minerality but perhaps less than in its youth. The marzipan increases in intensity as the wine breathes and somewhat subverts the chalkiness. There is little of the cream cheese/sour yogurt aroma left at this stage of evolution. Some what disappointing as this is one of the trademarks that I love in great examples of Corton Charlemange.
The palate has gained considerable breadth over the last year. The biggest change in flavor s is the dramatic increase in oxidative flavors. It's not soo salty like 'pre-mox'; it's more of a ripeness thing I suspect. The other flavors are similar to the nose with some more tropical papaya notes. The wine has very good acidity but seems all around tamer and less focused than it used to.
I'm not sure where this is going. I'll drink most of the rest of what I have left, as I preferred earlier examples. Who knows, maybe its just a stage and the wine will get better.
Clos St. Jaques, Fourrier 2004
I don't feel guilty drinking young Fourrier. I adore the wild, untamed fruit his wines possess in their youth. This bottle was decanted for 2.5 hours, put back in the bottle and transported to a wonderful dinner at the Birchrunville Cafe.
BAM! Sauvage blackberry, raspberry and curranty fruit with pure stony minerals and underbrush. Enough funk to draw comments from the peanut gallery, but really clean and bright to Pinot lovers. The fruit is just wild and plays expertly off the resinous earth tones. Quite open at this stage of its life.
The palate is silky smooth with fully integrated tannin and almost no perceivable acid. It's shocking how supple the texture is, like drinking silk. The texture is so soft in-fact, I looked back at the bottle to make sure I had brought the right wine!
With more air the wine grows increasingly complex. The acids peak out and some tannin becomes noticeable. The flavors are all there and perfectly complement the lithe texture. After about an hour in the glass the first hint of bitter tannin peaks out. In another half hour the wine is tight, acidic and painful. Thankfully by this point the bottle is empty and its time for dessert.
Friday, October 23, 2009
10/22/09
Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint Julien 1998
Ok, so I admit it. Occasionally I like a Whopper w/ Cheese. Once in a while I'get a kick out of some Asian kid's totally tricked out Honda Civic. Sometimes I marvel at surgically constructed Double D's. And sometimes I even enjoy 'Bordeaux'.
This wine was tasted blind along side Braised Lamb Shank and Great Northern Bean 'Risotto'.
Not as clear as I would expect from modern winemaking. Garnet in color with some bricking and also some brighter pinkish hilights.
The nose has the crystaline fruit quality I associate with Napa Cab. It has some cooler aroma's of tobacco and loam, but they are really deeply buried beneath bright cassis, mocha and spice.
The palate shocks somewhat. I expect much more body and thickness based on the aroma. The flavors have a decidedly cool edge with much more tobacco, cedar and rough dark earth tones. There's the bitter chocolate dark soil character and general moodiness I associate with St. Estephe. But the nose really says Napa Valley. I'll let it rest for a minute.
The Napa qualities are still there with slick elevage type aromas jumping out of the glass, but as it breathes the bottom really fills out with bass-y & less ripe smells. The palate has medium plus concentration but there's a hole in the middle. The wine has good balance, ripeness and complexity, but the tannins are slightly rugged and its not totally knit.
Then comes the epiphany; if this is Napa, it's Dunn Howell Mtn. But there's no olive aroma and there isn't a vintage that matches the body and evolution of this particular wine. Then it must be bordeaux, and that really only leaves Saint Julien. Rough dark aromas from Saint Estephe, and plush ripe fruit. Ducru it is!
I love Ducru for its exotic nature. Spicy, ripe and brooding. I'm not sure it's the classiest of juice, but I'm not the classiest of guys. Hey, there's something to be said for Whoppers and Double D's.
Ok, so I admit it. Occasionally I like a Whopper w/ Cheese. Once in a while I'get a kick out of some Asian kid's totally tricked out Honda Civic. Sometimes I marvel at surgically constructed Double D's. And sometimes I even enjoy 'Bordeaux'.
This wine was tasted blind along side Braised Lamb Shank and Great Northern Bean 'Risotto'.
Not as clear as I would expect from modern winemaking. Garnet in color with some bricking and also some brighter pinkish hilights.
The nose has the crystaline fruit quality I associate with Napa Cab. It has some cooler aroma's of tobacco and loam, but they are really deeply buried beneath bright cassis, mocha and spice.
The palate shocks somewhat. I expect much more body and thickness based on the aroma. The flavors have a decidedly cool edge with much more tobacco, cedar and rough dark earth tones. There's the bitter chocolate dark soil character and general moodiness I associate with St. Estephe. But the nose really says Napa Valley. I'll let it rest for a minute.
The Napa qualities are still there with slick elevage type aromas jumping out of the glass, but as it breathes the bottom really fills out with bass-y & less ripe smells. The palate has medium plus concentration but there's a hole in the middle. The wine has good balance, ripeness and complexity, but the tannins are slightly rugged and its not totally knit.
Then comes the epiphany; if this is Napa, it's Dunn Howell Mtn. But there's no olive aroma and there isn't a vintage that matches the body and evolution of this particular wine. Then it must be bordeaux, and that really only leaves Saint Julien. Rough dark aromas from Saint Estephe, and plush ripe fruit. Ducru it is!
I love Ducru for its exotic nature. Spicy, ripe and brooding. I'm not sure it's the classiest of juice, but I'm not the classiest of guys. Hey, there's something to be said for Whoppers and Double D's.
Monday, October 19, 2009
10/17/09
Barolo, 'Cicala', Aldo Conterno 1995
I thought this wine would be tight as a drum. Well, honestly I was afraid it would suck, and I have 5 more bottles. I've had more than three decades worth of Cicala, and not one example has ever been 'ready'. I'm wasn't even sure that this part of Bussia was capable of making wine that would ever evolve into the synergy that is great Barolo. I've often thought Cicala and Colonello should just be blended into one wine.....
Murky Nebbiolo orange-ish pink with some neon flecks.
Nose is instantly promising and somewhat worrisome. Flowers mingle with blood, tar and nuts. It smells great, but with a slight oxidative character and just little wisps of dried fruit. It's 50/50 whether the wine will improve with air or shut down.
Over the next two hours we are rewarded with something special. The first hour smacks of classic barolo, smelling multi-communal with fig, raspberry, minerals, tar, white flowers and a slight ferrous quality. It most reminds me of a Bartolo, but not as fine.
The second hour is where the wine really shines. It became quintessential Bussia with the fruit and flowers taking on a purple-y kind of quality with baking spices, and considerable sweetness. It had all of the deep spine tingling qualities one could want from a wine from monforte, and in Barolo in general.
Through the first two stages of evolution the palate was thin to watery with Cicala's typically agonizing tannin and tongue splitting acid. I didn't really mind. I knew what I was in for when I opened it.
Anyway, for those that stick around for the third act, it's pretty amazing. The middle fills in, concentration falls right in line and the flavors start to mimic the nose. There's tons of dried fruits with fig and raisin yielding to the bright raspberry and more purple flowers. Cinnamon and clove mingle with white truffle boosted by just a touch of VA. The VA is like salt on a perfectly cooked steak, making the wine taste more of itself rather than presenting as a flaw.
The wine is great, and only going to get better.
For those who say Aldo's wines aren't good anymore, you are wrong. This wine proves it, and if you are lucky, I might just share one of my remaining bottles.
Oh, and for the haters, yes, some of AC's wines do suck. Just not the Barolo. (with the exception of the '96 Granbussia. That wine was piss)
I thought this wine would be tight as a drum. Well, honestly I was afraid it would suck, and I have 5 more bottles. I've had more than three decades worth of Cicala, and not one example has ever been 'ready'. I'm wasn't even sure that this part of Bussia was capable of making wine that would ever evolve into the synergy that is great Barolo. I've often thought Cicala and Colonello should just be blended into one wine.....
Murky Nebbiolo orange-ish pink with some neon flecks.
Nose is instantly promising and somewhat worrisome. Flowers mingle with blood, tar and nuts. It smells great, but with a slight oxidative character and just little wisps of dried fruit. It's 50/50 whether the wine will improve with air or shut down.
Over the next two hours we are rewarded with something special. The first hour smacks of classic barolo, smelling multi-communal with fig, raspberry, minerals, tar, white flowers and a slight ferrous quality. It most reminds me of a Bartolo, but not as fine.
The second hour is where the wine really shines. It became quintessential Bussia with the fruit and flowers taking on a purple-y kind of quality with baking spices, and considerable sweetness. It had all of the deep spine tingling qualities one could want from a wine from monforte, and in Barolo in general.
Through the first two stages of evolution the palate was thin to watery with Cicala's typically agonizing tannin and tongue splitting acid. I didn't really mind. I knew what I was in for when I opened it.
Anyway, for those that stick around for the third act, it's pretty amazing. The middle fills in, concentration falls right in line and the flavors start to mimic the nose. There's tons of dried fruits with fig and raisin yielding to the bright raspberry and more purple flowers. Cinnamon and clove mingle with white truffle boosted by just a touch of VA. The VA is like salt on a perfectly cooked steak, making the wine taste more of itself rather than presenting as a flaw.
The wine is great, and only going to get better.
For those who say Aldo's wines aren't good anymore, you are wrong. This wine proves it, and if you are lucky, I might just share one of my remaining bottles.
Oh, and for the haters, yes, some of AC's wines do suck. Just not the Barolo. (with the exception of the '96 Granbussia. That wine was piss)
Thursday, October 15, 2009
10/13/09
Livio Felluga "Sosso", Fruili 1997
Let me just be honest about it, I love Friuli. These wines may not be everyone's cup of tea with their herbaceous aromas, low alcohol and punchy acid, but I adore them.
Hazy garnet color with little rim variation and an overall uniform color.
Aromas of tobacco leaf, wet earth, brambleberry, sour cherry and bitter chocolate smolder in the glass. As the wine opens it slowly brightens and shows polish. It has that certain nobly rustic quality that wines from the Colli Rossazzo often possess, but not quite as deep or sweet as some of the best Rossazzo wines made from Pignolo. Still, it is fresh, distinct and a pleasure to smell.
The palate has a texture not unlike Baudry Chinon: deep with ripe but cool fruit, rugged tannin and zippy acid. It gains significant breadth as it opens but never looses focus. To the contrary it never fully gives itself up, staying slightly bound up in structure. The various elements tug at each other but stay neatly balanced on knife edge acids. A wine of good richness with a slight air of importance lending complexity to its distinctly Friulian character. Not for everyone, but I really enjoyed it.
This is by far the best of the 3 bottles I bought at auction. Tasty.
Let me just be honest about it, I love Friuli. These wines may not be everyone's cup of tea with their herbaceous aromas, low alcohol and punchy acid, but I adore them.
Hazy garnet color with little rim variation and an overall uniform color.
Aromas of tobacco leaf, wet earth, brambleberry, sour cherry and bitter chocolate smolder in the glass. As the wine opens it slowly brightens and shows polish. It has that certain nobly rustic quality that wines from the Colli Rossazzo often possess, but not quite as deep or sweet as some of the best Rossazzo wines made from Pignolo. Still, it is fresh, distinct and a pleasure to smell.
The palate has a texture not unlike Baudry Chinon: deep with ripe but cool fruit, rugged tannin and zippy acid. It gains significant breadth as it opens but never looses focus. To the contrary it never fully gives itself up, staying slightly bound up in structure. The various elements tug at each other but stay neatly balanced on knife edge acids. A wine of good richness with a slight air of importance lending complexity to its distinctly Friulian character. Not for everyone, but I really enjoyed it.
This is by far the best of the 3 bottles I bought at auction. Tasty.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
9/24/09
Riesling, Hugel "Hommage a Jean Hugel" 1998
This wine slots in between the "Jubilee" and the Vendage Tardive. It has 33g/l RS. What? Hugel with 33g/l! What is the world coming to? This wine is sourced from the Grand Cru 'Schoenenbourg'
Unique aromas. Marjoram and sage mingle with coconut, sweet lemon creme and ripe yellow pear. Not really overripe but warmly supple and perhaps a touch imprecise. The marjoram is incredibly captivating and avoids becoming soapy. The coconut is neither vulger nor cloying.
The acids are quite snappy, holding the RS right in check, with little to no excess weight. The length is very good and bordering on great. It has a sneakiness with flavors and textures washing in very subtle waves. Flavors are very similar to the nose, complex and delicious. If I have a quilbble, it lacks the firm minerality I crave in Alsatian wine. That may be more a fault of the vintage and the vineyard. I haven't found many 98's particularly mineral rich and even fewer Schoenenbourg's.
The wine isn't amazing, but its as good as the vintage allowed and more than enjoyable. I'd drink several cases and be happy. Oh, and it was a solitary bottle in the 'rare wine room' of a pa state store. Score!
This wine slots in between the "Jubilee" and the Vendage Tardive. It has 33g/l RS. What? Hugel with 33g/l! What is the world coming to? This wine is sourced from the Grand Cru 'Schoenenbourg'
Unique aromas. Marjoram and sage mingle with coconut, sweet lemon creme and ripe yellow pear. Not really overripe but warmly supple and perhaps a touch imprecise. The marjoram is incredibly captivating and avoids becoming soapy. The coconut is neither vulger nor cloying.
The acids are quite snappy, holding the RS right in check, with little to no excess weight. The length is very good and bordering on great. It has a sneakiness with flavors and textures washing in very subtle waves. Flavors are very similar to the nose, complex and delicious. If I have a quilbble, it lacks the firm minerality I crave in Alsatian wine. That may be more a fault of the vintage and the vineyard. I haven't found many 98's particularly mineral rich and even fewer Schoenenbourg's.
The wine isn't amazing, but its as good as the vintage allowed and more than enjoyable. I'd drink several cases and be happy. Oh, and it was a solitary bottle in the 'rare wine room' of a pa state store. Score!
9/23/09
Hermitage, "La Chappelle", Jaboulet Aine 1999
Many of my wine professional friends call "La Chappelle" shit: spoofilated, bastardized, garbage. Maybe they really mean to compliment what the wine once was, because wow, it really was good. And while I agree that Chappelle is not what it used to be, I don't find it undrinkable.
Smells of waxy crayola crayon with brined olive and some faint citrus zest. Thin fruit aromas, not distinct enough to hint at a vintage, but not unlike what one would expect from Hermitage. With air it develops a thickness: herbal and very waxy - a touch of alcohol. Not complex, but certainly correct and without the smell of gourmet enzymes, toasty wood or fancy yeast.
The palate never really develops - It feels somewhat expensive but with angular unresolved tannin. The texture is flat and suggests more maturity than its age. It's good wine. But its not great wine. Maybe not even very good wine. When I think of the name "La Chappelle" its merely ok.
This note reminds me of the '99 Jasmin Cote Rotie I wrote about a while back. Like the '99 Jasmin (which is a truly spoofilated mess) the "Chappelle" is very vintage specific. I don't like the '99's. They are bland with characterless fruit. I don't believe the tannins will ever resolve. The best have moderate balance and are unoffensive; the worst are tannic, alcoholic and roasted. I'll take the greenish '97's and the soft '98's.
Many of my wine professional friends call "La Chappelle" shit: spoofilated, bastardized, garbage. Maybe they really mean to compliment what the wine once was, because wow, it really was good. And while I agree that Chappelle is not what it used to be, I don't find it undrinkable.
Smells of waxy crayola crayon with brined olive and some faint citrus zest. Thin fruit aromas, not distinct enough to hint at a vintage, but not unlike what one would expect from Hermitage. With air it develops a thickness: herbal and very waxy - a touch of alcohol. Not complex, but certainly correct and without the smell of gourmet enzymes, toasty wood or fancy yeast.
The palate never really develops - It feels somewhat expensive but with angular unresolved tannin. The texture is flat and suggests more maturity than its age. It's good wine. But its not great wine. Maybe not even very good wine. When I think of the name "La Chappelle" its merely ok.
This note reminds me of the '99 Jasmin Cote Rotie I wrote about a while back. Like the '99 Jasmin (which is a truly spoofilated mess) the "Chappelle" is very vintage specific. I don't like the '99's. They are bland with characterless fruit. I don't believe the tannins will ever resolve. The best have moderate balance and are unoffensive; the worst are tannic, alcoholic and roasted. I'll take the greenish '97's and the soft '98's.
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