Riesling, Hugel "Hommage a Jean Hugel" 1998
This wine slots in between the "Jubilee" and the Vendage Tardive. It has 33g/l RS. What? Hugel with 33g/l! What is the world coming to? This wine is sourced from the Grand Cru 'Schoenenbourg'
Unique aromas. Marjoram and sage mingle with coconut, sweet lemon creme and ripe yellow pear. Not really overripe but warmly supple and perhaps a touch imprecise. The marjoram is incredibly captivating and avoids becoming soapy. The coconut is neither vulger nor cloying.
The acids are quite snappy, holding the RS right in check, with little to no excess weight. The length is very good and bordering on great. It has a sneakiness with flavors and textures washing in very subtle waves. Flavors are very similar to the nose, complex and delicious. If I have a quilbble, it lacks the firm minerality I crave in Alsatian wine. That may be more a fault of the vintage and the vineyard. I haven't found many 98's particularly mineral rich and even fewer Schoenenbourg's.
The wine isn't amazing, but its as good as the vintage allowed and more than enjoyable. I'd drink several cases and be happy. Oh, and it was a solitary bottle in the 'rare wine room' of a pa state store. Score!
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