Brunello di Montalcino, Biondi Santi, 'Il Greppo' 1993
Dark garnet color with bricking turning brown at the edges. Initially a sleepy, disjointed nose of mushrooms, decaying leaves, alcohol, burnt wood and tar. A hater would have written it off as dried out and tired.
After two hours of half of the bottle being decanted.
Sublime nose of true Brunello character. Loamy soil undertones play a perfect harmony beneath an evocative melody of Campfire smoke mingling with burnt orange peel and bright strawberry rose petal fruit. On the palate it has classic '93 characteristics with a terrific push and pull between creamy glycerine and sneaky acids. The length is subtle and persistant and while the wine is muscular, it is also quite graceful.
I've had tons of Biondi Santi and none have ever compared to this. It is hard to avoid a comparison to Soldera. Heresy I know, but still, it reminds me of the '95 Institieti. The 'Il Greppo is less concentrated and less perfumed in the mouth but a great wine none the less. Makes me lament the dirth of "real" Brunello. This was my last '93 Brunello and I'm sad it's gone. '93 marked the last vintage this DOCG produced inspired wines.
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