Dinner at Osteria, Philadelphia
Pinot Bianco, 'Vorberg' Cantina Terlan 2005
Round aromas of ripe apple, pear and crushed stones. Not particularly complex on the nose, but still quite delicious to smell. I have only one little quibble. . .I want to say it smells like a partially reductive fermentation. Is anyone else tired of soooo many 'once good' Italian white producers using reduction to, 'preserve fruit character'. . .anway. . ..
The Palate is where it's at: Wonderfully vinous, with ying and yang a-plenty. It's more about the minerals than the fruit here, and when you think the wine might be a touch portly, the sound acids snap it back into shape. Tasty. . . and not to mention a great accompaniment to Grilled Quail with Zuchini and Corn. Is this the second best Pinot Blanc in the world? Kreydenwiess' 'Kritt' being number one (for me).
Barbera d'Alba, 'Cascina Francia', Giacomo Conterno 2005
Dark and somewhat awkward nose, but still attractive. Black fruits and hints of herbs with some juiciness contrasting forest floor. Slight whiff of rubber.
Palate is sweet, moderately thick, but still lithe. Sound acid supporting gobbi-fruit. Finishes with some mineral, angular tannin and very strong burnt rubber. This wine is totally reduced.
I was steered away from G. Mascarello's '04 'Scudetto', in favor of the Cascino Francia, by a self-effasing Somm. Having worked that type of gig for several years, I rarely if ever rebuke a Somm's recommendation on a wine or vintage I haven't not tried.
I believe the somm's description was accurate of the bottle he had tasted. Perhaps it was open longer than this one. The overall wine service was exceptional and we had a great experience. I'd like to taste the 'Francia' again in 12-18 months.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Friday, June 13, 2008
6/10/08
Bruno Giacosa, Gallina di Nieve, Barbaresco 1996
I know, I know, infanticide. . .but it's my father's Birthday and I just couldn't wait any longer. . ..
Starglow magenta with curranty flecks of red. . . a mohawk at a Sex Pistols concert. The nose is at once tight, hard and brutish but perhaps hinting at a softer side, like the smell of the color purple. Floral and bright yet mysterious and shy. The content of this glass is totally 'Schizo'.
After one hour of oxygen (half decanted, half in the bottle) the nose exploded for exactly 10 minutes of sheer beauty. sauvage-Rasberry-redcurrant-Nutmeg-effusive-cherry-smoke-meat- DELICIOUS-whiteflowers- Savory herbs-moremeat-Burnt orange peel-acid-acid-tannin-tannin-tannin. And that's it - She's Gone. . .but what a fling
It's hard to tell where this wine is going. As the wine opened and closed it showed more alcohol than I expected for this fantastic vintage. Many of the best Gallina's I've tasted have been more understated. Even the warm but absolutely perfect '71 didn't have afterburners like this. On the other hand this wine had more than ample acids, plenty of concentration and tannin for days. The overall balance didn't lean in any one direction; however, the last unnerving sip made everyone suck their cheeks in.
Although confused I am still in love with this wine. I can't wait to visit it again in 5-10 years. I wonder what it will be like then.
I know, I know, infanticide. . .but it's my father's Birthday and I just couldn't wait any longer. . ..
Starglow magenta with curranty flecks of red. . . a mohawk at a Sex Pistols concert. The nose is at once tight, hard and brutish but perhaps hinting at a softer side, like the smell of the color purple. Floral and bright yet mysterious and shy. The content of this glass is totally 'Schizo'.
After one hour of oxygen (half decanted, half in the bottle) the nose exploded for exactly 10 minutes of sheer beauty. sauvage-Rasberry-redcurrant-Nutmeg-effusive-cherry-smoke-meat- DELICIOUS-whiteflowers- Savory herbs-moremeat-Burnt orange peel-acid-acid-tannin-tannin-tannin. And that's it - She's Gone. . .but what a fling
It's hard to tell where this wine is going. As the wine opened and closed it showed more alcohol than I expected for this fantastic vintage. Many of the best Gallina's I've tasted have been more understated. Even the warm but absolutely perfect '71 didn't have afterburners like this. On the other hand this wine had more than ample acids, plenty of concentration and tannin for days. The overall balance didn't lean in any one direction; however, the last unnerving sip made everyone suck their cheeks in.
Although confused I am still in love with this wine. I can't wait to visit it again in 5-10 years. I wonder what it will be like then.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
6/12/08
Bonneau du Martray, Corton Charlemagne 2000
Initially cool and rocky with elusive but hard edged aromas. With air and warmth, becomes bigger and broader on the nose, with butterscotchy richness, candied ginger, lemon cream and more stony minerality. Although the aromas smell cool, the texture feels slightly mentholated, like a peppermint patty.
Palate is broad and rich, although slightly awkward at this stage. Firm attack that fills out richly, with breadth and variety in texture. Disappears on the mid palate, only to come back with sneaky, lemony persistence. Mostly Primary, with the baby fat shedding and just a hint of oxidation. Flavors mimic nose, but less giving.
I hold great hope for this wine, which currently only hints at its potential. Drinks like a premier cru now, but its got grand cru written all over it.
Initially cool and rocky with elusive but hard edged aromas. With air and warmth, becomes bigger and broader on the nose, with butterscotchy richness, candied ginger, lemon cream and more stony minerality. Although the aromas smell cool, the texture feels slightly mentholated, like a peppermint patty.
Palate is broad and rich, although slightly awkward at this stage. Firm attack that fills out richly, with breadth and variety in texture. Disappears on the mid palate, only to come back with sneaky, lemony persistence. Mostly Primary, with the baby fat shedding and just a hint of oxidation. Flavors mimic nose, but less giving.
I hold great hope for this wine, which currently only hints at its potential. Drinks like a premier cru now, but its got grand cru written all over it.
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