AJ Adam, Drhoner, Riesling 2003
Awful.
A complete abomination of wine making.
Hot, with the smell of rubbing alcohol, then matchstick and onion skin. If I didn't know this was wine, I wouldn't drink it for fear of being poisoned.
Completely subverted, one might find some honeydew and golden plum.
Worse on the palate. Completely disjointed. Alcoholic burn, that penetrates the sinuses and sulfuric heat that pierces the tongue like a dentist drill. There's a tiny wave of really quality fruit here, if you can find it. The honeydew and golden plum reappear with some sweet Jersey blueberry These are flavors really unique for riesling, making for a tragedy of Shakespearean proportions. Finishes with another rush of alcohol, truely spiritous in quality.
I drank half a glass, then switched to Coors Light. This wine should not have been made.
Any winemaker with the hype of this guy, should know better.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Thursday, July 10, 2008
7/5/08
Grans Fassian, 'Trittenheimer Apotheke', Riesling Auslese 1995
Ripe and punchy, with moderately tactile aromas of smokey peach and nectarine. There's a bass-y quince aroma reminiscent of aged Vouvray sans oxidation. The nose clearly leans towards stone fruit, with a whiff of botrytised apricot. Open, appealing and complex, could have just a touch more depth.
Rich and far reaching on the palate, with fresh acidity but certainly not racy. Shows the ripeness of the site, but missing some of the taught-ness resulting from the best (and often cooler) Mosel sites. I really can't complain, as the wine is far from flabby, and certainly not muddled. Although not exactly precise, its quite elegant and pure, a good representation of the '95 vintage and its site. I suspect many would 'love' this wine, while I merely 'like' it. But still, probably the best 'Apotheke' I've tasted.
Cote Rotie, Jasmin 1999
First sniff lacks aroma all together, like there's nothing in the glass at all. Decanted half of the bottle.
After 1 hour: Nose is just starting to gain steam, with ripe, round, red fruits. Still somewhat distant, strawberry, raspberry, and resin. High-toned and somewhat strange for Cote Rotie. With a bit more air, meaty aromas emerge and strawberry fruit bubbles up with considerable ethyl acetate.
The palate is suave and somewhat expensive in texture. Not really overdone, harmonious, yet. . .. 'Where's the beef?' (or maybe pork, more appropriately) The palate is almost as lifeless as the initial nose.
The wine isn't 'dead' in the traditional sense. . .not oxidized, but definately showing roundness from a contientious and expensive elevage. There also wasn't a pronounced vanillan character from new barrels. The tannins weren't invasive; to the contrary they were fully ripe and less edgy than most '99s. But wheres the fruit? Enough acid to support fruit (had there been any), but the wine just never woke up. By day two, the wine tasted like ketchup. bleh.
I have generally soured on the '99 Northern Rhone Vintage, which isn't surprising, as I always thought it was over-hyped. My initial gut instinct told me there wasn't enough stuffing to support the tannin in most of these wines, and many seemed awkward in a way that didn't suggest youthfulness. I still have some '99s from around the Northern Rhone; I'll think they'll have to rest for a bit longer. Maybe I'm wrong about them. Maybe they'll fill out. I hope so.
Ripe and punchy, with moderately tactile aromas of smokey peach and nectarine. There's a bass-y quince aroma reminiscent of aged Vouvray sans oxidation. The nose clearly leans towards stone fruit, with a whiff of botrytised apricot. Open, appealing and complex, could have just a touch more depth.
Rich and far reaching on the palate, with fresh acidity but certainly not racy. Shows the ripeness of the site, but missing some of the taught-ness resulting from the best (and often cooler) Mosel sites. I really can't complain, as the wine is far from flabby, and certainly not muddled. Although not exactly precise, its quite elegant and pure, a good representation of the '95 vintage and its site. I suspect many would 'love' this wine, while I merely 'like' it. But still, probably the best 'Apotheke' I've tasted.
Cote Rotie, Jasmin 1999
First sniff lacks aroma all together, like there's nothing in the glass at all. Decanted half of the bottle.
After 1 hour: Nose is just starting to gain steam, with ripe, round, red fruits. Still somewhat distant, strawberry, raspberry, and resin. High-toned and somewhat strange for Cote Rotie. With a bit more air, meaty aromas emerge and strawberry fruit bubbles up with considerable ethyl acetate.
The palate is suave and somewhat expensive in texture. Not really overdone, harmonious, yet. . .. 'Where's the beef?' (or maybe pork, more appropriately) The palate is almost as lifeless as the initial nose.
The wine isn't 'dead' in the traditional sense. . .not oxidized, but definately showing roundness from a contientious and expensive elevage. There also wasn't a pronounced vanillan character from new barrels. The tannins weren't invasive; to the contrary they were fully ripe and less edgy than most '99s. But wheres the fruit? Enough acid to support fruit (had there been any), but the wine just never woke up. By day two, the wine tasted like ketchup. bleh.
I have generally soured on the '99 Northern Rhone Vintage, which isn't surprising, as I always thought it was over-hyped. My initial gut instinct told me there wasn't enough stuffing to support the tannin in most of these wines, and many seemed awkward in a way that didn't suggest youthfulness. I still have some '99s from around the Northern Rhone; I'll think they'll have to rest for a bit longer. Maybe I'm wrong about them. Maybe they'll fill out. I hope so.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
6/17/2008
Dinner at Osteria, Philadelphia
Pinot Bianco, 'Vorberg' Cantina Terlan 2005
Round aromas of ripe apple, pear and crushed stones. Not particularly complex on the nose, but still quite delicious to smell. I have only one little quibble. . .I want to say it smells like a partially reductive fermentation. Is anyone else tired of soooo many 'once good' Italian white producers using reduction to, 'preserve fruit character'. . .anway. . ..
The Palate is where it's at: Wonderfully vinous, with ying and yang a-plenty. It's more about the minerals than the fruit here, and when you think the wine might be a touch portly, the sound acids snap it back into shape. Tasty. . . and not to mention a great accompaniment to Grilled Quail with Zuchini and Corn. Is this the second best Pinot Blanc in the world? Kreydenwiess' 'Kritt' being number one (for me).
Barbera d'Alba, 'Cascina Francia', Giacomo Conterno 2005
Dark and somewhat awkward nose, but still attractive. Black fruits and hints of herbs with some juiciness contrasting forest floor. Slight whiff of rubber.
Palate is sweet, moderately thick, but still lithe. Sound acid supporting gobbi-fruit. Finishes with some mineral, angular tannin and very strong burnt rubber. This wine is totally reduced.
I was steered away from G. Mascarello's '04 'Scudetto', in favor of the Cascino Francia, by a self-effasing Somm. Having worked that type of gig for several years, I rarely if ever rebuke a Somm's recommendation on a wine or vintage I haven't not tried.
I believe the somm's description was accurate of the bottle he had tasted. Perhaps it was open longer than this one. The overall wine service was exceptional and we had a great experience. I'd like to taste the 'Francia' again in 12-18 months.
Pinot Bianco, 'Vorberg' Cantina Terlan 2005
Round aromas of ripe apple, pear and crushed stones. Not particularly complex on the nose, but still quite delicious to smell. I have only one little quibble. . .I want to say it smells like a partially reductive fermentation. Is anyone else tired of soooo many 'once good' Italian white producers using reduction to, 'preserve fruit character'. . .anway. . ..
The Palate is where it's at: Wonderfully vinous, with ying and yang a-plenty. It's more about the minerals than the fruit here, and when you think the wine might be a touch portly, the sound acids snap it back into shape. Tasty. . . and not to mention a great accompaniment to Grilled Quail with Zuchini and Corn. Is this the second best Pinot Blanc in the world? Kreydenwiess' 'Kritt' being number one (for me).
Barbera d'Alba, 'Cascina Francia', Giacomo Conterno 2005
Dark and somewhat awkward nose, but still attractive. Black fruits and hints of herbs with some juiciness contrasting forest floor. Slight whiff of rubber.
Palate is sweet, moderately thick, but still lithe. Sound acid supporting gobbi-fruit. Finishes with some mineral, angular tannin and very strong burnt rubber. This wine is totally reduced.
I was steered away from G. Mascarello's '04 'Scudetto', in favor of the Cascino Francia, by a self-effasing Somm. Having worked that type of gig for several years, I rarely if ever rebuke a Somm's recommendation on a wine or vintage I haven't not tried.
I believe the somm's description was accurate of the bottle he had tasted. Perhaps it was open longer than this one. The overall wine service was exceptional and we had a great experience. I'd like to taste the 'Francia' again in 12-18 months.
Friday, June 13, 2008
6/10/08
Bruno Giacosa, Gallina di Nieve, Barbaresco 1996
I know, I know, infanticide. . .but it's my father's Birthday and I just couldn't wait any longer. . ..
Starglow magenta with curranty flecks of red. . . a mohawk at a Sex Pistols concert. The nose is at once tight, hard and brutish but perhaps hinting at a softer side, like the smell of the color purple. Floral and bright yet mysterious and shy. The content of this glass is totally 'Schizo'.
After one hour of oxygen (half decanted, half in the bottle) the nose exploded for exactly 10 minutes of sheer beauty. sauvage-Rasberry-redcurrant-Nutmeg-effusive-cherry-smoke-meat- DELICIOUS-whiteflowers- Savory herbs-moremeat-Burnt orange peel-acid-acid-tannin-tannin-tannin. And that's it - She's Gone. . .but what a fling
It's hard to tell where this wine is going. As the wine opened and closed it showed more alcohol than I expected for this fantastic vintage. Many of the best Gallina's I've tasted have been more understated. Even the warm but absolutely perfect '71 didn't have afterburners like this. On the other hand this wine had more than ample acids, plenty of concentration and tannin for days. The overall balance didn't lean in any one direction; however, the last unnerving sip made everyone suck their cheeks in.
Although confused I am still in love with this wine. I can't wait to visit it again in 5-10 years. I wonder what it will be like then.
I know, I know, infanticide. . .but it's my father's Birthday and I just couldn't wait any longer. . ..
Starglow magenta with curranty flecks of red. . . a mohawk at a Sex Pistols concert. The nose is at once tight, hard and brutish but perhaps hinting at a softer side, like the smell of the color purple. Floral and bright yet mysterious and shy. The content of this glass is totally 'Schizo'.
After one hour of oxygen (half decanted, half in the bottle) the nose exploded for exactly 10 minutes of sheer beauty. sauvage-Rasberry-redcurrant-Nutmeg-effusive-cherry-smoke-meat- DELICIOUS-whiteflowers- Savory herbs-moremeat-Burnt orange peel-acid-acid-tannin-tannin-tannin. And that's it - She's Gone. . .but what a fling
It's hard to tell where this wine is going. As the wine opened and closed it showed more alcohol than I expected for this fantastic vintage. Many of the best Gallina's I've tasted have been more understated. Even the warm but absolutely perfect '71 didn't have afterburners like this. On the other hand this wine had more than ample acids, plenty of concentration and tannin for days. The overall balance didn't lean in any one direction; however, the last unnerving sip made everyone suck their cheeks in.
Although confused I am still in love with this wine. I can't wait to visit it again in 5-10 years. I wonder what it will be like then.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
6/12/08
Bonneau du Martray, Corton Charlemagne 2000
Initially cool and rocky with elusive but hard edged aromas. With air and warmth, becomes bigger and broader on the nose, with butterscotchy richness, candied ginger, lemon cream and more stony minerality. Although the aromas smell cool, the texture feels slightly mentholated, like a peppermint patty.
Palate is broad and rich, although slightly awkward at this stage. Firm attack that fills out richly, with breadth and variety in texture. Disappears on the mid palate, only to come back with sneaky, lemony persistence. Mostly Primary, with the baby fat shedding and just a hint of oxidation. Flavors mimic nose, but less giving.
I hold great hope for this wine, which currently only hints at its potential. Drinks like a premier cru now, but its got grand cru written all over it.
Initially cool and rocky with elusive but hard edged aromas. With air and warmth, becomes bigger and broader on the nose, with butterscotchy richness, candied ginger, lemon cream and more stony minerality. Although the aromas smell cool, the texture feels slightly mentholated, like a peppermint patty.
Palate is broad and rich, although slightly awkward at this stage. Firm attack that fills out richly, with breadth and variety in texture. Disappears on the mid palate, only to come back with sneaky, lemony persistence. Mostly Primary, with the baby fat shedding and just a hint of oxidation. Flavors mimic nose, but less giving.
I hold great hope for this wine, which currently only hints at its potential. Drinks like a premier cru now, but its got grand cru written all over it.
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